i asked the mods to move my project thread into this forum, but scratch that, ill just link it.
anyway, im Roman, and this is my 95 Ford Probe GT
i took the liberty of photoshop washing my car and cropped it down to my desktop size, the original can be seen here
heres a list of everything on my car that different from when it was made
Go fast Stuff
engine swap from my old 93 probe GT. just a stock USDM mazda KLDE. 2.5 liter v6, factory rated at 164 crank horse at 5600 and 158ftlb torque at 148.
5spd swap out of my old 93 probe GT
ebay stage 2 clutch.
cold air intake
headers with a custom made downpipe
resonated test pipe
mandrel bent catback with a magnaflow muffer
custom short throw shifter
Coutts Motosports ported USDM KLDE intake manifold with deleted VRIS (intake butterflies) and pretty much eliminated vaccum system
GM HEI igniter and external coil <-reliability mod more than anything
lowered on ebay coilovers
custom adjustable swaybar endlinks
98 mustang GT 17x8 rims
245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 tires on the front
245/45/17 Goodyear Eagle ZR45 tires on the back
ToledoTuners sticker, worth 5hp
ebay front strut bar
ProbeAddiction rear billet strut bar
Weight Reduction and misc cleanup
removed A/C
removed Cruise
removed EGR
no interior panels behind the doors due to loud rattling. i want them back in but hate the rattling
intact dipstick mod
Appearance
stock size and shape foglights in stock locations
foglights rewired so i can have them on anytime ignition is on independent of any other lights
autozone ricer isle pedals for ease of heeltoeing
i went to a dyno day back in the fall long before the ported intake went on, and on a dyno that is run by apes and retards and a illegal mexican, i put down 147hp and 148torque
this is pretty bullshitty because there is no way i could run a 96mph pass if im only putting down 147hp. to run a pass that fast (i shouldve been deep into 14s with that trap but thats the noob driver mod) i would have to be making 160-170hp at the wheels.
heres a timeslip of my best pass so far. i only made 2 passes in this car before a cluster f**k of breaking shit went down and i couldnt make it to the track either because i was broke or the car was broke. 15.1 at 96, 2.3 60 foot. if i get that 60 foot down to a 2.2 ill be in the 14s
my project thread hasnt been updated in a while because my old screenname is permabanned, hence my current screenname. from now on ill list my updates in this thread. id appreciate if people let my old project thread die, ill link it in here, pictures will be up because i cant be hassled to clean out my photobucket. read, look, but dont post, let it die.
http://www.standardshift.com/forum/view ... 23&t=10224
anyway, heres a current update and current plans
engine
----Botom End
-KLDE block bored 20 thousands over, hot tanked, decked, all the usual stuff
-Stock crank is a forged steel unit capable of holding power that will destroy the block, no weakness here
-Ford 347 stroker 5.4 inch rods. big end will have to be bored out to 2.200" and the small end will have to be rebushed down to 20mm for a KL wrist pin. machine work like this isnt expensive, and strong SBF rods are cheap.
-Wiseco/Ross/whatever pistons, 20 over. wiseco carries the 9.5 compression pistons that will be great for boost, but they are 100 dollars more expensive than ross, and ross are better pistons. ross doesnt carry 9.5 compression KL pistons, only 8.5 and 10.2. 10.2 is on the high side for a daily driven turbo car. 8.5 in a turbo setup is the old way, modern tuning minimizes the risk of high compression + boost. a dillema. ill see what happens
-mazda OEM or ACL main and rod bearings
-rings provided by the piston maker
-oem mazda oil pump
----Top End
-USDM Spec KLDE heads ported and polished by yours truly to better than JDM KLZE specs. KLZE gasket matched ports all the way down to the valves, pics are in my other project thread
-Colt Cams turbo grind cams. specs are .355 lift on intake, .350 lift on the exhaust, and 274* duration on intake and exhaust
-possible KLG4 (98+ mazda 626) solid lifter conversion to get rid of my hydraulic lifters. i havent researched whether this is as simple as pull cams and swap lifters or if theres more to it, but if its a straight swap, im doing it, there is a KLG4 car in a junkyard near me. the pain in the ass of adjusting valve lash is worth the reduced valvetrain weight and no lifter bleedoff at high rpms and losing lift as result
-with the colt turbo grinds, my stock KLDE valvetrain will more than suffice. if i upgrade to their race grinds (363 lift, 288 duration) ill get interprep valvesprings
-custom made intake manifold. ill give this a shot. everything else i done to a car has worked up to now, im feeling lucky on this one.
-65mm or 67mm bored throttle body
-OEM mazda head gaskets
-OEM mazda head bolts. ARP doesnt make head studs for KLs (yet they make them for useless D series hondas, wtf) and paeco is a bunch of retards taht cant make anything right, and the turbo drag probe on probetalk that is putting down 480whp and rubs a 10.2 on 18psi uses stock head bolts and stock head gaskets. if thats good enough for him thats more than good enough for me
----Boost0rz
Garrett GT3582R turbo or because im cheap and its hard putting a 1300 dollar turbo in a 900 dollar car, my cheapass will get an ebay GT35 for 300 dollars
-ebay turbo pipes. header wrapped, obviously.
-custom downpipe because of garrett 4 bolt round flange and me needing a 3" downpipe and ebay selling a 5 bolt ford flange and a 2.5" downpipe
-ebay cold pipes, with an ebay intercooler. slightly trimmed front bumper to make the front mount fit
-real authentic TiAL 38mm wastegate. wastegate is something you do not cheap out on, because this fails and shit goes boom fast
-whatever blowoff i think sounds good whenever im ordering it. right now, a greddy RS because it sounds like simply air coming out fast, not a dying bird or sneeze or some stupid ricer shit.
-probably a cheap simple manual boost controller. probably upgrade to an EBC later
-turbo timer because when people see you getting out of your running car and walking away, WTF on their face is rather funny. occasionaly youll have someone say to you hey buddy you left your car running, then its hilarious
custom 3" exhaust with a muffler of my choice that sounds good
----Fuel/Engine Management
-Walbro 255 fuel pump. this is mandatory for any turbo build pretty much
-Aeromotive FPR
-Nissan SR20DET Fuel Injectors with modded KL fuel rails
-Megasquirt and Spark standalone engine management, most likely tuned by me and other toledotuners members on a certain stretch of highway a few miles north
-wideband. no questions about this one. wideband is the one gauge that is mandatory in every boosted car.
-usual oil and water temp and pressure gauges and stuff. maybe ill get baller and mount them in my stock dash so i avoid the gauge pods.
-custom made engine harness utilizing only the essentials that i need, no more big anaconda wiring harness. this will probably happen over the winter break because ill have another daily whip for a few weeks
----Drivetrain
-ACT 6 puck unsprung disk with a stock pressure plate. this combination is proven to hold boost without slipping and without destroying transmissions like a puck style with a stiff pressure plate does. think the grip of a puck style and the engagement of a stock clutch. strong hold and smooth engagement
-solid engine/trans mounts
-Matt Bolingers custom made probetalk back engine mount to distribute the load on more bolt holes (and prevent the typical trans case failure of the mount ripping a chunk of the case around the back mount
-stock axles, the trans will go before the axles, these dont matter
-mazdaspeed protege limited slip. this is a direct boltin into my mazda G5M transmission. im not gonna be stupid and try to put down 300+whp thru 1 tire, albeit one of the best street tires made today, its still not going to happen
-hard shifter but a smooth shifter mod for me, ripping the shifter out of the floor and sidestepping teh clutch will end up with me on the back of a AAA truck everytime
----Suspension/Brakes
ok so now im going fast, so i have to be able to corner fast and stop fast. time to get rid of this ricer ebay coilover shit, im tired of it. of all this list, this is probably my first mods after the new years and my hours pick back up
-Eibach ProKit
-Tokico Blue struts
-Ford Escort strut mounts for the front to lower it an extra 3/4 inch without losing strut travel
-overhaul front suspension eventually. i have new LCAs on the car with less than 15k miles on them, but tie rods and tie rod ends, strut bearings, all that kind of shit is getting there, the car is 15 years old afterall.
-overhauled back suspension would also be nice, but theres not much made for this, just the AWR trailing arms, no control arms or anything to make it look baller from behind
-mazda 626 18mm rear sway bar. thats all i need to shift the handling balance to neutral on this car, stocker is a useless 12mm and addco 22mm makes it too tail happy concidering that sometimes i drive way too tired to save a snap oversteer.
-ill still have my mustang rims, and by then ill probably have the pilot sport PS2s on all 4 corners, love these tires
-mazda6 front brakes. they are a direct bolton to my car. significantly bigger rotors (11.8' vs stock 10.2") and bigger calipers and pads. i want to look into Todd Reids race probe brake setup of 3000gtVR4 rotors and millenia 2 pot calipers, but id have to get custom caliper brackets. mazda6 brakes, or especially Ms6 brakes ( 12.8" rotor i believe) would be the cream of the crop
-Very possibly custom made subframe connectors. any unibody will greatly benefit from SFCs, the extra weight is worth it
----Misc
- put my interior back in and figure out how to make it not rattle
- tint windows. 20% all around, 50% windshield
- touch up a few spots on the paint
- paint my sideskirts and put them on, tired of the cracked ones i have now
EDIT: forgot the most important part. power goals for this build are 300-350wheel horsepower. thats all ill need to be borderline unstreetable on street tires. the engine can hold 600-700hp but the transmission cant. there is no point for power that cant be put down, and 300 horsepower is where you are bordering streetable limit in a FWD. any more than that and youll end up like this guy on toledotuners, he has a turbo EP3 civic SI, 450hp, 420 torque, open diff, 215 streeet tires. he ran a 13.5 at like 120, spinning 4th gear thru the traps. whats the point of that, you can not put down 450hp thru 1 215mm street tire, it cant be done. period. i wont bother with that. GT35 is a rather big turbo for only 300-350hp, but that gives me plenty of overhead when i feel like going even faster, GT35 will support up to 400-450hp
thats all i could muster off the top of my head for now.
Me in the staging lanes before my 15.1 pass
Me staging before my first ever pass, embarrasing 15.7
First photographs of after i painted and put on my rust repaired hatch. what a project that was, but so totally worth it.
Random pic in one of my universitys parking garages. back when i had my old rusted thru hatch and the wing. wingless now and loving it
And some more of my failtography, back in the early fall
