Project Christine slo Hackensteinberg

[theholycow]

I wiped a ridiculously thick layer of grease and dirt from the label and found that it is a 1352-145 (assuming that it hasn't been messed with, which T5 web pages say is pretty common so you can't necessarily trust the label).

According to http://www.inliners.org/Jack/t5_page.html it's from a 1985 - 86 S10 with the 2.5 L4 or 2.8 V6, and these are its ratios:
3.76, 2.18, 1.42, 1.00, 0.72

1st on the TH350 is 2.52, so this 1st should be ok.

The .72 5th is iffy. The engine's torque peak is at 2000RPM (82mph in 5th). 1700RPM at 70mph, 1450RPM at 60mph, or 1250RPM at 50mph. I think it'll work, and if it does I'll love it, but if it's too tall that's going to mean I have to do more work. If I can only use 5th for cruising at 70mph that'll probably be ok.

[theholycow]

While I was working on degreasing the T5 I noticed numbers molded into the tailhousing and that's when I remembered what I read about mix-and-match T5 parts...the issue was that you shouldn't depend on the tailhousing part number. Therefore, it's pretty unlikely that the label I found on the main housing was wrong.

I may have wrong about the weight. I think I must have had an adrenaline rush from being so happy about getting the T5 out. It was much heavier when I carried it 30 feet to where I planned to degrease it.

I couldn't get it degreased to my satisfaction working outside. It's 90°F, very sunny, very humid, and I'm severely sunburned (I spent the entire day under the same amount of sun yesterday at the RI Air Show).

I took off the bellhousing, which weighs almost nothing (aluminum), and carried the rest about 75 feet and down a flight of stairs to my basement where I had setup a workbench. I think without the cumbersome bellhousing it was easier to carry. I found that crack I noticed before, it's on the extra starter bump on the passenger's side. Where the starter was on the driver's side there is no bump, it's cut out. Presumably I could cut the cracked bump out the same, if I'm using this bellhousing with an adapter, especially considering that the Buick's stock starter location is passenger's side.

It is now in my basement where I can do whatever I want to it until I'm done, regardless of weather and sunlight.

[LHOswald]

She is now in my basement where I can do whatever I want to her until I'm done, regardless of kicking and screaming.

uhhhh

[1974Alfa5spd]

She is now in my basement where I can do whatever I want to her until I'm done, regardless of kicking and screaming.

uhhhh

Any pics of the T5? Or did that adrenaline rush also cause you to forget to take out the camera?

[theholycow]

I've seriously degreased it. I used one of my favorite tools: Drill/dremel-mounted wire brush. I started with a big 2" cup-style wire brush on the drill, then a 1" end brush, then a little wire wheel on the dremel (which I destroyed). I wish I had a better collection of dremel wire brushes. I think I'll work on that.

I'll post pics soon, probably in the next hour...possibly in a few minutes. I seem to have run into a tool deficiency. I've got a roll pin to drive out. I've always improvised with an allen wrench or a cut-off nail but I'm not sure it'll work and I don't want to mangle anything.

Any other ideas for an improvised pin drift/punch?

I need to get the top off so I can check the gears out, see its guts, check the 1/2 centering spring, and check the reverse light switch.

Also, while reading the T5 service manual, I see that some T5's are equipped with a neutral switch. In a thread about remote starters I think someone proposed that a neutral switch was not possible (an idea that I found silly). Apparently it's not only possible but actually exists.

[DKaz]

Great progress so far!

[theholycow]

Ok, I cleaned up my tools and work area, did some chores, and showered. Wife made kickass supper (huge thick juicy burgers with fried eggs, bacon and lettuce with crumpets for buns). I uploaded 21 pics, I probably shouldn't post them all here.

If you have any interest at all you might want to check out the gallery. You can see all of them, as well as the previous ones, in all their zoomable high-res glory at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/PerforatedB ... nsteinberg

Covered in a layer of grime on average 5mm thick:


This is where the S10's starter was. I think it either got broken out on purpose (maybe there was no starter bump; this isn't the S10's original tranny, it's from a previous-generation S10 that was 8 years older) or it cracked and someone just broke it the rest of the way out.


Remember that crack in the bellhousing?


Well, a moderate tap from a hammer knocked it right out, so that answers the question of whether to buy a bellhousing or an adapter.


How about that...the bellhousing with two pieces broken off makes a perfect stand for working on the T5 on the bench.


Engine with clutch assembly:


Flywheel sans clutch assy:


Clutch assy:


Clutch fork, release/throwout bearing, and ball stud (not visible but the fork is attached to it):


I started degreasing with Simple Green, but it wasn't doing anything. I also tried carburetor cleaner. Then I used a 1/4" wide chisel and a hand wire brush. Then I switched to one of my favorite tools: Drill/dremel-mounted wire brush! I have a variety of shapes and sizes I used.

(Also, I previously had used Engine Brite when it was on the truck. )

Not black anymore. Metal is exposed and much of the corrosion is removed. It's not perfect but at least I can get a grip on it (and not get completely covered in black crap).



An old console TV makes a great work bench. I should gut it and use its interior for storage.

[theholycow]

Oh, I forgot to mention: It seems like the last person to open this transmission used silicone window caulk to seal it. Is there clear RTV silicone gasket stuff that becomes exactly the same as 100% silicone window caulk?

[Chris H.]

Mmm..burgers with green chile. Oh wait. You didn't list that...

[theholycow]

I went to Harbor Freight to buy some drifts to drive out that roll pin. I went to buy a $6 set of punches and ended up buy $60 worth of stuff. A fiberglass wire fishing kit (for putting wires through tight spaces), square drive U-joints, a spring-loaded centerpunch that was cheap next to the punch set, a set of button batteries for my laser pointers (fun for the kitties!), a box of D-cells for some fly zapper racquets I have, and a finger-cutoffer set of toothed circular blades for the dremel.

I don't need it, but I had to get it while I could...I'm sure they won't be selling those for long. Item #67224, not listed on their website, $5.

[watkins]

This project has me almost as excited as it has you.

And, as always, Harbor Freight for the f*cking win!

[theholycow]

I'm glad I'm not the only one who's excited. I've got a raging clue.

Ok, Cow Cadets, I have a job for you. Find me a BOP (Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) manual bellhousing for under $60 shipped. Casting numbers that I'm pretty sure will work are 547975, 9778882, 9785581. Other BOP manual bellhousings may work too, but I think they need to either have dual starter provisions or be configured for a passenger's side starter.

It can be more than $60 if it comes with a matching fork and other accessories.

eBay, Google Products, and Craigslist are not doing it for me.

Anybody taking bets on whether I'll successfully adapt the linkage-based bellhousing for my hydraulic clutch plan? Can anyone find out how much throw the fork will need, or what will be required to use a concentric slave?

[watkins]

Try that junkyard out near Hartford. I hear good things. Might be going next weekend if you want to tag along

[theholycow]

Sir, it would be an honor and a privilege to accompany you and combine our quests. Which junkyard is it?

That is, of course, assuming that the wife doesn't have some other fate planned for me.

[DarkPilot]

Disregard Females, Acquire Automobile Spares!