Mazda 3 problem?

Synchros shot? Weird noises while shifting? Not sure what needs to be replaced?
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Canuck
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Mazda 3 problem?

Post by Canuck »

Hi guys, long time no post.

I'm having two (hopefully) small issues with my 04 Mazda 3.
One: At highway speeds, whenever I make a lane change or when I'm following a curved ramp or whatever, there's a weird humming kind of noise coming from the front end. lol Its hard to explain, its like a BURRRRR sound. No vibrations or anything; I don't think its a wheel bearing, I could be wrong. Any ideas?

Two: Whenever stuck in heavy traffic, like stopped for long periods of time, after about 30-40 mins, the engine starts to over heat. I can bring it back down when I put the heat on, but that's no good in mid summer. I haven't checked the fuses yet, I'll do that today. Any ideas though?

Thanks in advance,

Brett
04 Mazda 3 5spd
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Tups
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Re: Mazda 3 problem?

Post by Tups »

I don't know about the first issue, but I used to have the same overheating problem with the Escort when the electric fan behind the radiator wasn't working properly. Have you checked that? How about the rest of the cooling system components (coolant, pumps, thermostat, pipes etc.)?
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AHTOXA
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Re: Mazda 3 problem?

Post by AHTOXA »

First issue:

Check your tires for visible uneven wear. This could be an indication of worn or misaligned suspension components. If bad enough, this could be the source of the noise. Wheel bearing should make the sounds consistently as well, not just at times. That's strange. Maybe a few more details would help.

Second issue:

Check to see if the electric fan at the radiator is coming on when the car starts to overheat. You generally should be able to hear it well. Take a look if you can't. If the car is heating up and the fan is not on, then go from there. Otherwise check for obvious coolant leaks and check coolant level. Check for air pockets in the system. To do that on a cold engine open the radiator cap. Start the car and have it run. Make sure it gets to operating temp. As the thermostat opens bubbles will come out if there are pockets of air. You will be able to tell when the thermostat is open when you see coolant circulating or your lower rad hose is warm.

If you are starting to overheat and the lower rad hose is cold, then you either have a thermostat that won't open or a radiator blockage. You can test the thermostat if you take it out and drop it in some boiling water. You will physically see it open.

In addition, a faulty radiator cap will cause loss of pressure, can introduce air in the system and may lead to overheating.
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Re: Mazda 3 problem?

Post by theholycow »

The first problem is almost certainly your wheel bearing. You can confirm a positive diagnosis with tests, but you cannot confirm a negative diagnosis except by replacing it (unfortunately). Jack that corner of the car. Grab the wheel at the top and bottom. Try to wiggle it, pushing at the top and pulling at the bottom (and vice-versa). If it wiggles you can be sure it's bad. Spin the wheel (car will need to be in neutral). If it doesn't spin freely you can be sure it's bad.

The tests can't conclusively say that it's not bad. It's different when there's no weight on it.

Could be brake-related, I suppose.
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Re: Mazda 3 problem?

Post by Rope-Pusher »

I had wheel bearing issues years ago. It started as a noise as you have described, only when steering to the right. Later, rather quickly, it progressed to noise when steering to the left and then noise when steering to the center, too.

If electric radiator fan is not turning on in response to high coolant temperatures, it might still actuate when the AC is running, but that depends on whether it is the fan motor relay or the temperature sensor that has failed. Of course, check fuses first!
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