If the clutch isn't fully disengaging then shouldn't there be trouble getting into other gears?
I went for a 30minute drive today and it's a lot better, I'd say about 50% of the time it's going in without resistance.
Is the input shaft and fork very difficult to get to? I'm pretty new to the mechanical aspects of cars.
First gear problem
- theholycow
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Re: First gear problem
In many transmissions, 2nd's synchro is reportedly better than the others because of the 1st->2nd ratio gap. It could more easily overcome resistance from a clutch that's not fully disengaged. That leaves only your ease of entering 4th in question, if we're looking at it as a clutch release issue. If 4th happens to be very close to 3rd (which is pretty common) you may not notice.
If you have an externally mounted slave cylinder then half of the fork is visible on the outside of the transmission. Without experience (probably experience specific to your transmission) you may not be able to tell if it's aligned and moving properly, though a severe misalignment or a crack may be visible to the untrained eye while a helper operates the clutch pedal.
The input shaft, and movement of the clutch, may be slightly visible through an inspection cover if equipped.
Some aggressive driving that heats up the input shaft and thrashes the clutch around may suffice to rub off any surface rust or break free a dried glob of grease. (Thanks goes to user Rope-Pusher for that idea from a story he posted; thanks goes to him for a lot of what I know, for that matter.)
If you have an externally mounted slave cylinder then half of the fork is visible on the outside of the transmission. Without experience (probably experience specific to your transmission) you may not be able to tell if it's aligned and moving properly, though a severe misalignment or a crack may be visible to the untrained eye while a helper operates the clutch pedal.
The input shaft, and movement of the clutch, may be slightly visible through an inspection cover if equipped.
Some aggressive driving that heats up the input shaft and thrashes the clutch around may suffice to rub off any surface rust or break free a dried glob of grease. (Thanks goes to user Rope-Pusher for that idea from a story he posted; thanks goes to him for a lot of what I know, for that matter.)
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
- bk7794
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Re: First gear problem
Where is he? I haven't seen him around here in ages!theholycow wrote:In many transmissions, 2nd's synchro is reportedly better than the others because of the 1st->2nd ratio gap. It could more easily overcome resistance from a clutch that's not fully disengaged. That leaves only your ease of entering 4th in question, if we're looking at it as a clutch release issue. If 4th happens to be very close to 3rd (which is pretty common) you may not notice.
If you have an externally mounted slave cylinder then half of the fork is visible on the outside of the transmission. Without experience (probably experience specific to your transmission) you may not be able to tell if it's aligned and moving properly, though a severe misalignment or a crack may be visible to the untrained eye while a helper operates the clutch pedal.
The input shaft, and movement of the clutch, may be slightly visible through an inspection cover if equipped.
Some aggressive driving that heats up the input shaft and thrashes the clutch around may suffice to rub off any surface rust or break free a dried glob of grease. (Thanks goes to user Rope-Pusher for that idea from a story he posted; thanks goes to him for a lot of what I know, for that matter.)
2004 Honda Accord 2.4 5 Speed
1989 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
1989 Ford Taurus SHO 5 speed
- theholycow
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Re: First gear problem
A week or two ago he dropped in once, for a few posts, then disappeared again.bk7794 wrote:Where is he? I haven't seen him around here in ages!
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
Re: First gear problem
Just found something else unique about this. If I disengage the clutch and put slight pressure on first gear's syncros/wall within a split second then I can get into gear without a hitch, I also tried putting pressure on first gear's syncro, then disengaging the clutch and it will go through within half a second even with this light pressure. If I disengage the clutch, count to 1, then try put slight pressure on it I'm again faced with the "harder" wall that won't go away.
I'll try see if I can bleed the slave cylinder this weekend. Hopefully it won't have crazy flash floods and I won't have to work for too long. 7 day working week ftl .
I'll try see if I can bleed the slave cylinder this weekend. Hopefully it won't have crazy flash floods and I won't have to work for too long. 7 day working week ftl .
- theholycow
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Re: First gear problem
I don't know what that means but I bet it means something significant. Seems like the clutch needs to be spinning a little and it's probably stopping too quickly. Failed release bearing, maybe?
Eventually this will get figured out. No matter what else happens in my life, my life will now never be complete until you post the diagnosis and ultimate solution.
Eventually this will get figured out. No matter what else happens in my life, my life will now never be complete until you post the diagnosis and ultimate solution.
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
Re: First gear problem
Fuuuuu my car is soooo weird. Went for a a quick Mcers run and first gear was absolutely smooth!