During the restoration of my RX-7, I've encountered innumerable cases where I've had to remove surface rust from parts. For large, relatively flat parts, a wire wheel on a bench grinder is king, but for parts with many nooks and crannies that can't be accessed easily, submersion in rust-removal liquids is great.
I've had great success with a product called Evapo-Rust, but unfortunately it is pretty expensive when you have to use large quantities of it. I did a little research and discovered many people have had success with using citric acid dissolved in water. Anyone done that before and have advice to give? I also saw a video of a guy removing rust with a molasses and water solution .
Another method that interests me is electrolysis. Anyone done that before?
Any other rust removal methods to discuss?
Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
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Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
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1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
Have you tried Cola? I'm being serious.
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
Pepsi FTWsix wrote:Have you tried Cola? I'm being serious.
ClutchFork wrote:...So I started carrying a stick of firewood with me and that became my parking brake.
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
I was going to write up an epic post but my situation is different, I'm more worried about frame rust and large parts.
I'm glad to hear that Evapo-Rust works but bummed about the cost. I wish I had some idea what can be used more cost-effectively. I'm surprised that it is costly when used as a dip; can't you keep re-using it?
What about doing as much mechanical removal as possible with all manner of wirebrushes and maybe sandblasting, then using naval jelly? Naval jelly (phosphoric acid gel) converts rust into a stable oxide material; if the rust was thick then supposedly you can just knock the resulting black oxide off and apply it again, until it doesn't come off anymore and that last trace of rust gets converted and seals itself into a protective layer ready for paint/undercoating.
I'm glad to hear that Evapo-Rust works but bummed about the cost. I wish I had some idea what can be used more cost-effectively. I'm surprised that it is costly when used as a dip; can't you keep re-using it?
What about doing as much mechanical removal as possible with all manner of wirebrushes and maybe sandblasting, then using naval jelly? Naval jelly (phosphoric acid gel) converts rust into a stable oxide material; if the rust was thick then supposedly you can just knock the resulting black oxide off and apply it again, until it doesn't come off anymore and that last trace of rust gets converted and seals itself into a protective layer ready for paint/undercoating.
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
Oxalic acid, electrolysis, and molasses described well in one thread:
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showth ... p?t=197299
Nice.
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showth ... p?t=197299
Nice.
1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L 5MT
Put your car in your sig!
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watkins wrote:Humans have rear-biased AWD. Cows have 4WD
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
When life gives you molasses,...Maek Cookies!theholycow wrote:Oxalic acid, electrolysis, and molasses described well in one thread:
http://www.survivalistboards.com/showth ... p?t=197299
Nice.
'08 Jeep Liberty 6-Speed MT - "Last of the Mohicans"
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
I have heard of that, but haven't tried it. I seem to recall it being tested on an episode of Mythbusters and being successful. I wonder how aggressive it is, though. I have a few parts that have rust scale buildup, I wonder if the cola would be acidic enough to remove it. I'll pick up a 2-liter one day and see what happens.six wrote:Have you tried Cola? I'm being serious.
You can, but it eventually loses it magical powers. I once found out the hard way that if left alone for a long time (weeks-months), it turns into an incredibly thick black sludge .theholycow wrote: I'm glad to hear that Evapo-Rust works but bummed about the cost. I wish I had some idea what can be used more cost-effectively. I'm surprised that it is costly when used as a dip; can't you keep re-using it?
it really is great, though. I'm not exaggerating when I use the term 'magic'.
I do have some naval jelly, but honestly haven't used it much. I'll work that into my routine as well.theholycow wrote: What about doing as much mechanical removal as possible with all manner of wirebrushes and maybe sandblasting, then using naval jelly? Naval jelly (phosphoric acid gel) converts rust into a stable oxide material; if the rust was thick then supposedly you can just knock the resulting black oxide off and apply it again, until it doesn't come off anymore and that last trace of rust gets converted and seals itself into a protective layer ready for paint/undercoating.
1986 Mazda RX-7 sport - slowly returning to the Earth
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
1986 Mazda RX-7 base - Project car, ???, In pieces, turbo parts around.
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Re: Let's talk rust removal (chemicals, electrolysis, etc)
noob5,000,000 wrote:I do have some navel jelly, but honestly haven't used it much. I'll work that into my routine as well.
I'm sure this would help you get rid of that navel jelly. I heard that they really don't check anymore to see if you are a fan.
'08 Jeep Liberty 6-Speed MT - "Last of the Mohicans"