My Integra

[Shadow]

Actually, Mitsubishi says the VGs reduce total vehicle drag by around 1.7% and measurably reduces rear-end lift as well.

I made no claims whether they actually do anything or not. I simply said that they look horrible, in my opinion. A rear wiper is functional too, but I don't like they way they look either.

[comawhite]

Well, this car is amazing. I love the seats in it better than I did in my Prelude. They are a lot more comfortable. The inside feels a lot smaller than the Prelude, especially around the dash area. With it being a hatch. I feel there is a lot more room. Maybe that's just me. The only problems I see is it's an B18B1 (LS) non-vtec, has really no power and the 3rd gear in the LS transmission is too f**k long. Oh, you'll see a few hundred dollars on a catalytic converter if yours goes out. I could get a cheap one, but they are ones have to weld on and I don't like those. I also don't like the tan interior. I wish it had the black interior with the blue strips on the seats. At least on my Integra year model. I won't have to remove ABS to fit the JDM front end on it. :3

[94Corolla5Speed]

Catalytic converters are expensive for every car. The cat from the dealer for my car (not even OEM, a reproduction by Bosal) is $200.

The cat for the 96-97 cars (OBDII) is $611.

[tankinbeans]

Catalytic converters are expensive for every car. The cat from the dealer for my car (not even OEM, a reproduction by Bosal) is $200.

The cat for the 96-97 cars (OBDII) is $611.

If it's anything like the 95 Accord I had there are 3 catalytic convertors.

Love the car! Keep it understated. All the ones I see in my area are raped to within an inch of their lives with the tacky add-on bits and rendered ready for a skip.

[noob5,000,000]

My FC used to have 3 catalytic converters, but then I was like:

+

[AHTOXA]

I didn't really have any issuez with the power of the B18 in the LS when I had mine. I thought it pulled well.

[comawhite]

Well, my clutch decided to go to hell now. It's already making it hard to shift into 2nd gear unless I stay under 2500rpm and if I skip 2nd gear and go from 1->3 I have like really little to no power and takes forever to rev it up. Looking at some clutch kits like on eBay. I did have an F1 eBay clutch in my Prelude, only had 3,000 miles on it before I ruined that car and had no problems. I figured I'd give it another try until I can get an H22A swap. The only problem is on the Integra, the Stage 1 pressure plate looks like garbage and the Stage 2 looks more like the one I had in the Prelude and debating on whether to get the poorly designed one (Stage 1) or go with the proper design one (Stage 2). Car is stock, but not sure if I can handle a Stage 2 clutch.

[bk7794]

Wait what? I didn't know that was a symptom of clutch failure. I'd get an Exedy or a stock honda clutch. that's just my opinion and the poor experience with aftermarket.

[potownrob]

Wait what? I didn't know that was a symptom of clutch failure. I'd get an Exedy or a stock honda clutch. that's just my opinion and the poor experience with aftermarket.

u awake??

[theholycow]

He has a point.

- "hard to shift into 2nd gear unless I stay under 2500rpm" sounds like a clutch release system problem like air in the hydraulics, not worn clutch disc friction material...or something wrong with the 2nd synchro.

- "if I skip 2nd gear and go from 1->3 I have like really little to no power and takes forever to rev it up" sounds like a clutch that's grabbing perfectly, and a driver who's not used to that shift or an engine not making enough power. If the clutch was worn out it would slip, so it would rev up sooner and the car just wouldn't accelerate like it should.

[IMBoring25]

Yeah, sounds like deal with it or a transmission rebuild to replace the second-gear synchro if I had to guess.

If the clutch is done, do the whole thing. Needing a master cylinder or pilot bearing shortly after a fresh clutch job is no fun.

[Rope-Pusher]

Put it in first, accelerate up to peak torque speed, stand on the throttle and the brake at the same time. If RPM's climb or hold steady as the vehicle speed decreases, your clutch - how you say? - ees sleeps. Eef engine rpm ees pulled down as zee vehicle speed reduces, ees no sleeps.

Eef you can no sheeft eento rayvairse weeph clutch pedal buried unless engine she's off, your clutch she's no fully raylease. Cuuda be raylease seestem or cudda be russ onna splince of the transmeeshun eenpoot shaph....or cudda be bursa clutch deesk.

OEM clutch (deesk & coever), she's design as part of system with engine, engine mounts, flywheel, trans input shaft, transmission gear lash, and clutch raylease seesem. You no increasa de torque SIGNIFICANTLY, you no need nuthin else. You changemup, maybe raylease seesem deflect too mush an clutch she's no raylease allaway nomower, or you get bad KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKs of Neutral Rattle and nobody let you come through their drive-thru line anymower, or you get buckin bobble tryinta creep in traffic an pholks think your tryinta be a lowrider. Ees barassing.

[comawhite]

Honestly, double clutching didn't even help it go in smooth.

[AHTOXA]

I read the entire post by Rope in a heavy Hispanic accent

[tankinbeans]

I read the entire post by Rope in a heavy Hispanic accent

I went back a reread that, and had a heavy hispanic accent as well. o_0